2023 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux

Blend: 93% Cabernet Sauvignon; 6% Merlot; 1% Petit Verdot.

This is another monumental Lafite. It could never be called opulent, but there is much more volume and intensity on display already. The bouquet is slow to open, and the first impression on the palate is a wall of tannins. But the wine’s class oozes from every element. You sense its potential being restlessly contained: its elusive fruits, flavours and textures pushing against its carapace like facial features imprinted in taut latex. An odd metaphor, perhaps, but something out of the ordinary is required to express this wine’s very special personality. It is very dense and fine, perhaps not such a giddy representation of its fantastic terroir as in 2022, but neither is it too cerebral.

Drink 2035 - 2075

Our score: 18.5/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd