2022 Volnay, Clos des Chênes, 1er Cru, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur, Burgundy

The 2022 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru is very expressive on the nose. Redcurrant, wild strawberry and light rose petal scents unfold in the glass, less immediate than the Caillerets but ultimately offering more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. This is harmonious, taut, fresh, and well-defined, with a composed but persistent finish. Excellent.“All our vines are on the slopes, and we did not observe any stress in the Chardonnay,” Bitouzet-Prieur informs. “Beaune Les Aussy was the only vineyard that showed some signs of stress because the soils are so free-draining. We picked from August 25 until August 31. It was a normal length of harvest, even though the volume was higher. You didn’t have to look out for bunches that were not ripe. I find the 2022s fresher than the 2020s, with slightly lower alcohol. The 2020 vintage was precocious, and I think those wines will drink younger.” This is another domaine where the Volnay Clos des Chênes forms a high point, closely followed by the Caillerets. Amongst the whites, I particularly like the superb Meursault Santenots, which had the audacity to outshine the Les Perrières and Les Charmes.Drink 2026 - 2045Neil Martin, Vinous.com.com (January 2024)

One third comes from lower down, then the rest higher up on white soil which brings the structure. A much denser colour, enormously more powerful, hence coming later in the line-up. A muscular style to the fruit, and many more tannins, this will need a great deal longer to come round. Good wine with potential, if slightly surprising to find this structure in Clos des Chênes.Drink 2032 - 2038Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy_com (July 2023)