2022 Volnay, Clos de la Rougeotte, 1er Cru, Domaine François Buffet, Burgundy

The 2022 Volnay Clos de la Rougeotte 1er Cru has a very pretty floral bouquet with dark cherries, bergamot and forest floor scents, unfurling beautifully in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with more mineralité than the Carelles and more persistence on the finish whilst retaining a slightly linear quality. Give this 3-4 years in bottle.Along with Pierrick Bouley, this domaine is one I can see entering the top league of Volnay producers. At present, however, the calibre of these wines is flying under the radar, apart from those acquainted with them. Buffet began by explaining how, during June and July, he sows seeds, cereals, radishes and legumes that grow and break up the soil, enhancing nitrogen content during winter. He says that, unlike grasses, they do not compete with the vine since he destroys these plants, mulching them into the soil the following February. He has three hectares under biodynamics, though he prudently assesses its impact before expanding it across all his holdings. “I can see some change,” he says. “The vines under biodynamics are ready three or four days earlier.” Concerning the 2022 vintage, he commenced the picking on August 28. “The 2022 is opposite to the 2021 with a lot of tannins and power though they are not too harsh,” Buffet opines. The 3 hectares under biodynamics may expand if there is an advantage.Drink 2025 - 2042Neil Martin, Vinous.com.com (January 2024)

The first picked, and one of their biodynamic plots. A clean medium deep purple. The nose is strikingly elegant in the Rougeotte way, with a little extra ripeness and still that feeling of whole bunches that is typical of the Buffet style, even though there are none in this wine, very lovely on the palate with some peony notes on top of the raspberries.Drink 2028 - 2034Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy_com (December 2023)