2022 St Véran, Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Burgundy

The 2022 Saint-Véran offers tantalizing glimpses of sea spray on the nose, simple but charming. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, orange rind and light apricot notes, gaining weight towards the finish that has commendable persistence and weight. Punches above its weight.Arguably the most prominent Meursault producer, it was big news when Dominique Lafon retired and handed the running to his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre Lafon, who took maternity leave after giving birth to her two children. Of course, Dominique Lafon remains a presence at the winery. They taste together every other week, though in the past, on more than one occasion, Lafon has emphasized how they make the calls.“The 2022 is our last vintage with Caroline Gon [who is not devoted to her and her husband’s domaine, Frantz-Chagnolou]. There was a transition period between her and our new winemaker, Elsie Moore, who has now taken over.” As well as the Mâconnais wines, we tasted through their complete portfolio of reds and whites. “The reds were racked after the harvest at the end of September. They were picked from August 29 and finished on September 4. The alcohol levels are around 13.5%, with a pH around 3.50. We have a new de-stemmer, so we have some whole bunches, around 50% for some cuvées. The whites will be bottled as early as January next year.” Drink 2024 - 2034Neil Martin, Vinous.com.com (January 2024)