2022 Mâcon-Chardonnay, Clos de la Crochette, Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Burgundy, France

The 2022 Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette has a quite backward nose that needs more tension. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity, much more expressive than the aromatics, with a peachy, seductive finish. Lovely. But the nose needs to step up a gear.Arguably the most prominent Meursault producer, it was big news when Dominique Lafon retired and handed the running to his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre Lafon, who took maternity leave after giving birth to her two children. Of course, Dominique Lafon remains a presence at the winery. They taste together every other week, though in the past, on more than one occasion, Lafon has emphasized how they make the calls.“The 2022 is our last vintage with Caroline Gon [who is not devoted to her and her husband’s domaine, Frantz-Chagnolou]. There was a transition period between her and our new winemaker, Elsie Moore, who has now taken over.” As well as the Mâconnais wines, we tasted through their complete portfolio of reds and whites. “The reds were racked after the harvest at the end of September. They were picked from August 29 and finished on September 4. The alcohol levels are around 13.5%, with a pH around 3.50. We have a new de-stemmer, so we have some whole bunches, around 50% for some cuvées. The whites will be bottled as early as January next year.” Drink 2023 - 2030Neil Martin, Vinous.com.com (January 2024)