2021 Saumur Blanc, David, Arnaud Lambert, Loire

The 2021 Saumur Brézé Clos David is a tranquil and calm Chenin, bringing silken flesh around its tangy acid backbone. Attractive nectarine, ripe apple and citrus aromas are joined by a subtle pastry character from 10 months on lees and a lick of cream from partial malo. While 2021 is a cool vintage, it finishes with a hint of warmth that lightly detracts from what is a delightful wine, mainly if your name's David.Arnaud Lambert studied wine in Saint-Émilion and Burgundy and was employed at cooperage François Frères. Lambert came home in 2005 to work with his father, who passed away in 2011. He introduced organics in 2009 – including in rented parcels – and has since started practising biodynamics. With vineyards in the appellations of both Saumur and Saumur Champigny, he makes Chenin Blancs that are savoury and soulful, offering a firm line of acidity that provides precision. I remember being blown away by Lambert’s single-vineyard Clos David and thinking I needed to know more about this estate. Lambert shows a sensitive hand in oak and captures ripeness without opulence. Arnaud Lambert is a domaine in the ascendancy.Drink 2023 - 2030Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com.com (October 2023)