2021 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

From a .97 ha holding, 25% are whole clusters, and yields will be only 9 hl/ha in 2021.

A cool, airy, overtly floral-suffused nose comprises notes of spicy red berries and soft earth. The super-sleek, if not especially dense, middleweight flavours exude an almost pungent minerality on the lacy and graceful finish. This is an atypical de Montille Champans, as it's much finer than usual. When I asked why, the response was that the bottom portion of the vineyard was so badly frosted that only the top portion, which gives finer wines, was used.

Drink from 2029 onward

Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (August 2023)