2021 Côte de Brouilly, Les Griottes de Brulhié, Château Thivin, Beaujolais

Bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, cracked pepper and orange rind, the 2021 Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié is medium to full-bodied, taut and tangy, with supple tannins, racy acids and a long, saline finish. From high-altitude, southeast-facing holdings, it's one of the more tensile wines in this year's portfolio.As I've written before, this historic estate continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais. The Geoffray family have banished herbicides and insecticides from their vineyards and number among the appellation's most conscientious farmers, working toward organic certification (something they've already attained for several cuvées, as indicated in the tasting notes).  In the cellar, winemaking is traditional, with semi-carbonic maceration and élevage generally in foudre—though some small cuvées see a little new wood. A staple of France's best restaurants—and this writer's table—any readers who are not acquainted with these wines are warmly advised to seek them out. Despite the challenges of frost, disease and rain, the 2021s have turned out very well and mark a return to a cooler, crunchier style of Beaujolais that we haven't seen for several years.Drink 2021 - 2031William Kelley, Wine Advocate (August 2022)