2020 Restless River, Ava Marie Chardonnay, Hemel en Aarde, South Africa

Moving to biodynamic, they put a real emphasis on soil health. Single 2-ha vineyard, planted in 1999 at 260 m on granite and deep underlying clay, facing south-west. Clones 5 and 55. Spontaneous fermentation, all in 500-litre barrels. Owner-winemaker Craig Wessels aims for Old World burgundian style, apparently. Oxidatively made and lots of gas used when moving from barrel to barrel. Then aged in 10% new oak, 10% amphora, 10% tank and 70% old oak.Very distinctive nose. Great grip on the palate but quite muted – non showy but it should last very well (Dirk Niepoort apparently enjoyed the 2013 recently on a visit!). Very lively – long and throbbing.Drink 2023 - 2030jancis_robinson_mw MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)

Popping with aromas of popcorn kernel, fresh lemon zest and just-ripe yellow apples, the 2020 Ave Marie Chardonnay is expressive and seductive in the glass. Medium-bodied, the palate is precise with energetic acidity, offering a succulent profile and balanced structure before ending with a long, spicy, oaky finish and lingering flavors of spiced white tea. Bravo, I want more!Drink 2023 - 2035Anthony Mueller, Wine Advocate (December 2023)

The 2020 Chardonnay Ava Marie is whole bunch pressed, the juice oxidized and settled, followed by a spontaneous barrel ferment with 10 to 12 months sur lie. Lucid green/gold in hue in the glass. This has an attractive bouquet with a very subtle reduction, the 10% new oak discrete in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp line of acidity, quite taut and linear, hints of orange rind and plenty of salinity on the finish. Excellent.Drink 2023 - 2032Neil Martin, Vinous.com.com (September 2022)

Bold nose of ripe pear fruit and white flowers. Rich, with perky acidity and a distinct marzipan note, this is a serious wine. Sherbet lemon, peach tea and a smidge of vanilla complete the picture on the palate. A lovely lime acidity closes this out in style. Restless River likes to hold back its wines in bottle pre-release to round them off, including the whites, so this Chardonnay from 2020 is only seeing the light of day in November 2022.Drink 2022 - 2028Chris Wilson, Decanter.com (August 2022)