2020 Saumur-Champigny, Les Closiers, Domaine des Closiers, Loire

The 2020 Saumur-Champigny from newcomer Domaine des Closiers is very creamy, almost velvety. This is just the second vintage from this estate, and the fruit is sourced from several parcels and terroirs around the domain in the village of Parnay. In its light-bodied frame, plenty of primary red-berry fruit deserves drinking in youth; there's the merest touch of pencil lead, no greenness and a touch of spice. It provides balance (just 13% alcohol), freshness and refreshment before leaving a fine dusting of chalky tannins. It's a really excellent wine with great drinkability.In 2019, Anatole de la Brosse, a Champagne native and business consultant in Paris, bought a domaine off a retiring vigneron. The vendor had always sold his grapes to negociants, and he needed a single employee working the 15ha of vineyard alone. De la Brosse attempted to do both his job in Paris and revive this Saumur-Champigny estate, but in 2021, he dedicated his life to his vines and has a small team as well as a consultant, Michel Chevré of Clos de l'Ecotard. The vineyards are in organic conversion, and biodynamic farming is practised. Drink 2022 - 2030Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com.com (August 2022)