2020 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Très Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Joseph Roty, Burgundy

More black than purple, but the fruit is very far from being dried out. Just an immense volume of very succulent super-dark strawberry. Very intense dark fruit, some raspberry, some blueberry, but will clearly need a long time. The tannins are a little rougher than the Griottes-Chambertin but it doesn’t really matter as they will integrate by the time the wine should be drunk. Drink 2035 - 2050Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy_com (November 2022)

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very fragrant nose, quite similar to the Griottes-Chambertin in many ways but maybe with a touch more definition. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, intense black cherries and bilberry fruit. It feels candied towards the very persistent finish with residues of white pepper. Superb.Having missed my annual tête-à-tête with winemaker Pierre-Jean Roty in his trademark baseball cap, it was high time I returned for what is a marathon tasting of the last two vintages, the 2021 from barrel and the bottled 2020s, over 40 wines. Roty tells me that he commenced picking on 22 September and harvested for seven days. It was one of their latest harvests in the last decade, although it was just half the normal volume due to the growing season.  As usual, all these cuvées are completely de-stemmed. Wisely, I ask to commence with the 2021s because the 2020s are almost uniformly decadent, powerful, voluptuous wines that occasionally trip over into almost Port-like wines where it manifests Syrah-like notes. By contrast, whilst no doubt the 2021s are definitely some of the black-coloured, more concentrated, black-fruited and opulent iterations of the vintage, the coolness of the growing season puts a rein on some cuvées tendency for excess. These wines do require considerable cellaring. If you want a more immediate and transparent Marsannay, then head to Sylvain Pataille or Bruno Clair, but for wines with more substance and puissance, Roty’s wines will tick all your boxes.Drink 2030 - 2060Neil Martin, Vinous.com.com (January 2023)

There were only seven barrels of the superb 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes, as the Roty family's ancient vines yielded a mere 18 hectoliters per hectare. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis and plums mingled with liquorice, sweet spices, violets and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with huge concentration, velvety tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This monument in the making will require a decade's patience and prove essentially immortal after that.Drink 2030 - 2070William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2023)