2019 Oremus, Tokaji Furmint, Petracs, Hungary

100% Furmint from 65-year-old-vines. Single vineyard, a grand cru whose name means ‘beautiful stones’. The Tempos Vega Sicilia group’s general philosophy is against single-vineyard wines and owner Pablo Álvarez was dubious about this one, but winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga convinced him this 2.5-ha, goblet-trained, west-facing vineyard was worth bottling separately. There are thousands of different Furmint clones, even a dark-skinned one. ‘The vinification is easy peasy Japanesy because the fruit is so good’, according to Iturriaga. Yield always <30 hl/ha.Very intense nose and massive grip and density while still showing the finesse and acidity of pure Furmint. Really racy and approachable. Like dried apricot compote with no sugar whatsoever. Real presence in the mouth. Hint of creaminess. Very long.Drink 2023 - 2033jancis_robinson_mw MW, JancisRobinson.com (February 2023)

A fine layer of toast adds a smoky edge to the fresh lemon and mineral allure. Serious, pure and textured with bright, taut acidity that makes you come back for more. Tangy and fresh. Drink or holdjames_suckling, jamessuckling_com (June 2022)

100% FurmintEnjoyed during a Vega Sicilia tasting held in Bordeaux in March, this was one of the most distinctive and enjoyable white wines I have tasted this year (another one, if I am allowed to sneak an extra one, is Bodegas de la Riva San Cayetano, Macharnudo). Vines drawn from a specific plot of 60-year-old vines, 200m altitude, within the Oremus vineyard, this is gorgeous, slightly nutty, almost manzanilla edging, white pear and nectarine pit, huge grip, brilliant character, with a whoosh of spice on the finish, love it.Drink 2023 - 2035jane_anson_mw, janeanson_com (July 2023)