2017 Barolo, Margheria, Massolino, Piedmont, Italy

This plot in the Margheria MGA lies at 340 metres above sea level on 1.1 hectares of calcareous soil with sandstone. The yield per hectare is 4.5 tonnes per hectare, while the average age of the vines is 35 years. The winemaking is traditional, with a long maceration of up to 20 days, then ageing in big oak vessels for 30 months. This 2017 is more austere than open-knit. Margheria has the ability to combine sternness with elegance, here with a stunning intensity. Pomegranate fruit peeps out on the nose, while there’s a crystalline floral character of Parma violets, dried cherry and liquorice, with some earthy tones. The attack is also austere, with firm tannins that are muscular and powerful and a velvety, refined texture. Firm acidity leads to a lifted finish.Drink 2021 - 2040Aldo Fiordelli, Decanter.com (March 2021)