2015 Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, Les Chemins d'Avize, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Extra Brut

The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize opens in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, fresh pasty, vanilla pod and fresh herbs. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and chalky, with a vinous, instead concentrated profile and bright acids, it's a little compact out of the gates but appears to be built to age with grace.As I've written before, Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the Côte de Blanc's—and Champagne's—finest estates. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier family farms organically and harvest late, vinifying the resulting wines in wood. The result is vinous, elegantly muscular Champagnes that are concentrated but precise. In a region that still produces far too many meager, brittle wines, Larmander-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture of which great Champagne is capable. Drink 2025 - 2040William Kelley, Wine Advocate (December 2023)